Goral is referring to Jose Garces, the Philadelphia-based chef and empire builder who opened the Argentine-themed Rural Society in Washington this past summer. To achieve empanadas that pass muster with the boss, Goral and his team stuff a soft dough with a filling of Swiss chard and cheese that gets a haunting flavor from Pernod, the French anise liqueur. Caramelized onions and bechamel sauce add to the juiciness.

If everyone made them this way, nobody would get a dry empanada again.